A city shaped by kings, legends and quiet beauty
Kraków is one of those places that grows on you slowly. The more you walk, the more stories you notice around every corner. For centuries this was the royal capital of Poland, and life in the city revolved around Wawel Hill, a limestone bluff rising above the river. Whenever we bring visiting friends to the castle, we always stop for a moment on the terraces because it is easy to imagine how many kings, queens and travelers once stood in that same place, looking over the same bend in the Vistula.
From Wawel, the old Royal Route leads straight into the heart of the city. It begins at the sturdy walls of the Barbican and St. Florian’s Gate and ends at the Main Market Square, a huge open space that still feels like the city’s living room. We always tell people to pause right in the center and look around slowly. Between the towers of St. Mary’s Basilica, the cafés, the florists and the sound of horses, it has a rhythm that is impossible not to love. Every hour a trumpeter plays the Hejnał from the highest tower, cutting the melody short as a tribute to an old legend. It is one of those Kraków moments that stays with you.
The Main Square, layer after layer of history
The square is impressive today, but what lies under it is just as interesting. The Rynek Underground Museum lets you walk through excavated foundations, market stalls and artifacts from daily medieval life. It is a great way to understand how old this place truly is. Above ground, the Cloth Hall stands proudly in the center. We like walking under its arcades in the evening, when the galleries close and street musicians take over the echoes.
If you enjoy art, one of Kraków’s treasures is the Czartoryski Museum, home to Leonardo da Vinci’s Lady with an Ermine. The painting itself is small, but seeing it in person feels surprisingly intimate and quiet. We recommend it even to people who usually don’t visit museums.
Kazimierz, Podgórze and the spirit of the city
Kraków’s personality changes depending on the district, and each area has its own charm. Kazimierz is where the city feels most creative to us. It used to be an independent town with a strong Jewish community, and today it is full of synagogues, cafés, art studios and small restaurants. We love wandering aimlessly here because the neighbourhood rewards curiosity. Tiny courtyards appear out of nowhere, murals brighten the walls, and there is always a place for a coffee or a glass of wine.
Across the river is Podgórze, a quieter district with a more reflective mood. This is where you will find Schindler’s Factory Museum, an excellent and emotional walk through Kraków’s wartime history. It is one of the exhibitions we recommend booking in advance because it often fills up. Around Ghetto Heroes Square the atmosphere is calm and respectful, with wide open space and simple memorials that speak for themselves.
The university of Copernicus and the beauty of Kraków’s details
Kraków is also a city shaped by scholars and artists. The Jagiellonian University is one of the oldest in the world, and its Collegium Maius courtyard is one of our favourite places to escape the noise of the center. The cloisters, the old clocks and the echo of footsteps make it feel like time moves differently here. It is fun to remember that Copernicus studied in these same halls centuries ago.
Just a short walk away is the Franciscan Church, where colourful stained glass by Wyspiański fills the space with warm blues and reds. We often step inside for a moment of quiet before continuing our walk.
A city wrapped in green
Kraków is surprisingly green for a medieval city. After the old city walls were dismantled, the empty ring was transformed into Planty Park, a leafy belt that surrounds the entire Old Town. We love using it as a relaxed shortcut, especially in the late afternoon when the light filters through the trees. If you are looking for a view, Kościuszko and Krakus mounds offer some of the best panoramas, especially on clear days.
And if you have a bit more time, the natural valleys of Ojców National Park are incredibly close. It is one of our favourite escapes, full of limestone cliffs, castles and forest paths that make you forget how near you are to the city.
A few more cultural favourites
If you feel like exploring more, we also enjoy the National Museum’s rotating exhibitions, the contemporary art at MOCAK, and the quiet beauty of small churches you can enter while walking through the Old Town. Kraków has a way of surprising you with details, whether it is a hidden courtyard, a small statue on a rooftop or an old shop sign that somehow survived the decades.
More than anything, Kraków is a city meant to be walked. It reveals itself slowly and rewards anyone who takes the time to wander. We hope you enjoy discovering it as much as we have while living here.
Districts at a glance
- Old Town — the Rynek, St. Mary’s, Cloth Hall, lanes full of cafés.
- Wawel — royal courtyards, the Cathedral, and river views.
- Kazimierz — synagogues, courtyards, street art, and cozy coffee spots.
- Podgórze — Ghetto Heroes Square, Schindler’s Factory Museum, riverside paths.
- Nowa Huta — a model socialist district with grand avenues around Plac Centralny and retro milk bars.
If you like museums…
- Wawel Royal Castle — State Rooms & Royal Apartments (timed entries in season).
- Czartoryski Museum — home to Leonardo’s Lady with an Ermine.
- Schindler’s Factory — Kraków during WWII (Podgórze).
- Rynek Underground — multimedia archaeology under the Main Square.
- National Museum (Main Building) — Wyspiański, Matejko, and major exhibitions.
- MOCAK — contemporary art next to Schindler’s in Podgórze.
